When an owner tells me their puppy is 'wild', the fix is almost never more exercise. It is usually more chewing, more sniffing and more sleep.
A puppy's mouth is how they investigate the world, and they are teething on top of it. You cannot switch that off. You can decide what they practise on.
Why puppies chew
Chewing is a normal, self-soothing, physically necessary behaviour. Measured properly, chewing and licking lower arousal — which is why a puppy who has had a good chew falls asleep afterwards.
- Teething discomfort from roughly three to seven months, with a rough patch again around the adult molars.
- Investigation — a puppy's mouth is their hands.
- Boredom, when nothing else in the room is interesting.
- Over-tiredness, which usually looks like biting everything and everyone.
- Learned habit, when the fun thing they chewed last week is still within reach.
Safety and welfare first
What your puppy actually needs each day
Bark For Attention
The daily three
Hit these and most 'crazy puppy' complaints disappear within a fortnight.
Sleep
16–20 hours. Most over-biting puppies are simply exhausted.
Chew
At least one appropriate chew session daily, in a quiet space.
Sniff
Most of one meal delivered through searching, scattering or a snuffle mat.
Set the house up so the right choice is the easy one
- Puppy-proof at floor level: cables boxed, shoes away, chair legs blocked with a gate or pen.
- Keep a chew basket in every room your puppy uses, so a swap is always within reach.
- Use a pen or crate for chew time — quieter, safer, and it builds a settle habit at the same time.
- Rotate: five items out, ten put away, swapped weekly. Novelty is free enrichment.
- Bin the food bowl for most meals. Kibble in a snuffle mat, a towel roll, or scattered on the lawn.
- Have one 'trade' item ready — a handful of food to swap for anything they grab that they should not have.
- Never chase a puppy who has stolen something. Chasing teaches keep-away.

The behaviour you are building
The goal is a puppy who, when their mouth needs a job, walks to their own basket instead of your sofa — and who can lie down and switch off afterwards.
- Picks up their own chew → quiet praise, leave them to it.
- Brings you something they should not have → trade cheerfully, never scold. You want a puppy who brings things to you.
- Settles after chewing → do not interrupt. That is the whole point.
- Disengages from a chair leg when you rustle the chew basket → pay with the swap.
The step-by-step plan
Step 1 — Build the chew menu
Start with soft and safe
Rubber food-stuffable toys, a licking mat with wet food smeared on, a frozen wet flannel for teething, softer edible chews sized so they cannot be swallowed whole.
Add free options
Cardboard boxes stuffed with paper and kibble, an empty egg carton, a towel rolled around food. Supervise and remove the shredded pieces.
Rotate weekly
Same toy every day becomes furniture. Same toy every ten days stays exciting.
Step 2 — Feed through the nose
Swap the bowl for a search
Scatter breakfast on a mat, in grass, or in a towel roll. Ten minutes of sniffing tires a puppy more than a walk.
Keep it easy at first
If your puppy gives up, make it simpler. Frustration is not enrichment.

Step 3 — Attach chewing to your routine
Chew before the crash
Give a chew as soon as the zoomies or land-shark biting start. That behaviour is almost always over-tiredness.
Chew when you need quiet
Stuffed toy in the pen while you eat dinner or take a call. You are building an off switch, not buying time.
Step 4 — Teach the trade
Approach with food, not hands
Puppy has your slipper: scatter five pieces of food on the floor away from them, and pick the slipper up while they eat.
Repeat until it is a game
Practise the trade with legal items too, so giving things up always predicts something good. This is your best insurance against guarding later.
Step 5 — Protect the sleep
One hour up, two hours down
For most young puppies, an hour awake needs a couple of hours of real sleep behind a gate or in a covered crate.
Chew, then nap
Chewing into a nap is the smoothest way to teach a puppy to settle themselves.
Enrichment ideas that cost nothing
- Muffin tin with kibble under tennis balls.
- Cardboard box with scrunched paper and food hidden inside.
- Frozen licking mat with a thin smear of wet food.
- A 'sniffari' in the garden: toss a handful of food into the grass and let your puppy work.
- A safe household object tour — a cardboard tunnel, a wobbly cushion, a plastic tray to step on. Novelty at home builds confidence.
- Two minutes of easy training — name, sit, hand touch — as mental work between naps.
Troubleshooting
- Ignores every chew you buy — make them edible. Smear food on it, freeze it, stuff it. Value has to be built.
- Still chews furniture — that is a management gap. Block access with a pen while the habit fades.
- Chews harder when you take something away — stop taking, start trading.
- Gets over-excited and bites you during enrichment — they are tired. Chew in the pen, then nap.
- Guards their chew — give chews only in a pen or crate, walk past dropping better food, and get help early if it escalates.
- Eats the enrichment items — supervise fully and switch to non-shreddable options; call your vet if anything was swallowed.
When to get professional help
Go deeper
Print & keep
Your puppy enrichment checklist
- One supervised chew session every day
- All chews pass the thumbnail test
- Most of one meal delivered by sniffing or licking
- Five items out, the rest rotated weekly
- Chew basket in every room your puppy uses
- Pen or crate used for chew and settle time
- Trade game practised with legal items
- Nothing chased, nothing snatched from the mouth
- 16–20 hours of sleep protected daily
- Vet check booked if anything is being swallowed





